The following is a post from contributing writer Jami.
I love the framed corkboards from Ballard Designs – especially the largest sizes. Unfortunately, the price causes me to hyperventilate so I’ve looked for ways to make my own boards. I’ve been able to make smaller boards for my kids using rolled cork applied messily to foam board, but I’ve been limited by the dimensions of the rolled cork.
Then one day I spotted a 36-inch by 48-inch corkboard (the kind found in offices with a metal border) in a discount store for $8.99! I brought it home without the faintest idea how we would apply a wood frame, but with complete faith in my husband (*wink*). After finding some wide, used molding at a local salvage store ($10 for all four lengths), we put our heads together and came up with an easy way to attach wood molding to a pre-made corkboard.
- Corkboard in desired size (a thin metal frame is best- the molding won’t lay as flat over a thicker plastic frame)
- 4 pieces of wide (ours was 3-1/2-inches wide) molding – salvaged or new – 4-inches longer than each side of the board (to go 2-inches beyond the ends of each side)
- 3-4 pieces of 1/4-inch lath strips the same dimensions as the molding (we used these to camouflage the metal frame that showed a bit from the side, but it’s optional if the frame won’t ever be viewed from the side)
- Hammer and finish nails (an air nail gun really makes it easy if you have one)
- Wood glue (if using the lath pieces)
- 3/4- inch screws
- Miter saw or box
- Wood filler
1. Carefully measure the dimensions of your corkboard. Then mark your molding pieces for cutting so that the board will rest inside the “frame” you’re making–like the cardboard back on a picture frame. It should overlap 1 – 2 inches to give you room to screw through the edge of the corkboard into the wood frame (we made a pencil mark where the edge of the board hit the molding and used that to guide us in cutting the mitered corners).
2. Using a miter saw or box, cut the molding to the dimensions of the corkboard. If you’re using the optional lath strips to hide some of the metal frame, cut these at the same time as well. As you can see, the corners aren’t perfect, but nobody will see this part and the front can be easily fixed with wood filler – so don’t be afraid of the mitered cuts!
3. Paint the frame molding at this point, if needed. If you’re starting with new wood, use a primer and then a couple coats of paint. The salvaged wood we found was already painted white, so I only added a light coat at the end.
4. Match the corners of your wood frame together and attach them by nailing the finish nails from the side. Lay the wood frame face-down and set your corkboard in place. Using a drill or power screwdriver, drive the screws through the back of the corkboard and into the wood frame. Make sure they are going into the thick part of the wood molding.
5. If using the lath strips apply them with the board lying face down and run a bead of wood-glue to each, placing them next to the edge of the metal frame on the back of the wide molding.
With the frame complete, it’s starting to look more like our $300 inspiration board…
All that’s left is to fill any corner gaps (if you’re an ace with a miter saw, you might not even need to do this!), paint and hang.
6. Fill the mitered corners, where needed, with the wood filler, smoothing with your finger. Allow to dry and lightly sand the filled areas.
7. After a bit of touch-up painting on the corners, no one will be the wiser to the less-than-perfect miter job.
8. Lastly, hang using the hardware provided with the corkboard. Alternately, attach it directly to the wall if you’ll never want to move it – nail directly through the molding that is on the top of the corkboard, fill the holes and paint. All that’s left is to fill it with all the things that inspire you.
Though I don’t know what I’m more inspired by- my clippings and photos, or the fact that this $300.00 bulletin board knock-off cost us just over $20.oo. What do you think?